I have Marzocchi 350 R fork. In RH should be 150 CC of oil. Does it include oil in DBC?
Hi there. Could you please confirm the oil volumes for a 2015 350 NCR Titanium? This page (http://marzocchiworkshop.blogspot.co.nz/p/oil-quantities-and-levels_858.html) states 200ml(LH) and 25ml(rh)for a 2015 model, and 25ml(lh) and 200ml(rh) for the 2016 model. Im assuming the damper side gets the 200ml and that value includes the oil needed for the DBC damper? Cheers for any light you can shed on this
200cc DBC damper side, so this includes the dampers volume
Hi Dan,this doesn't make any sense to me.The volume table has 25 cc for both stanchions of every fork in the 350 series, with 2 exceptions: the 350 NCR Titanium, and the 350 R.Coincidentally these 2 are the only non-air forks, since the Ti uses a titanium spring, and the R uses a steel spring.Why would the 350 NCR Titanium use 200 cc of oil in the damper, while the 350 NCR (air) uses only 25 cc for the exact same DBC system?It seems to me the high volumes are supposed to go in the spring side, not the damper side.On the other hand, 25 cc is far too little oil to include the DBC's internal volume, so it's hard to bleed the DBC without knowing the total volume.Am I wrong? I hope you can clear this up.Regards,thomasg
the volume is the same on each fork and you only really have to worry about the cartridges external volume, 25cc on both. The 200cc refers to the dampers internal volume as well, ignore this. Just fill the NCR damper up and re-fit the compression unit, any over fill will be expelled out of the bleed port as soon as the damper is cycled and the damper is bled.
Hi Dan, Ive carefully watched the NCR service video. I Own a 350 CR, and would like to simply replace the oil as a basic service. Is the procedure for the CR much the same as the NCR, or are there significant differences?
its basically the same with the exception of the damper, which although functions the same requires a different procedure for bleeding. To bleed it, just follow the LR damper video! cheers
Thank you Dan! Wasn't expecting a reply that quick
NCR Ti here... 2016 I think. New.Lockout switch wasn't doing anything, so I decided to disassemble fork to ensure oil levels and type were correct. I am hoping for some guidance - I filled the damper up with 7 wt oil (topped off with rod extended), filled each leg with 25 mL from the top of each leg. Rode today - all adjustments work well, but I blow through the travel (able to bottom out in parking lot, though it takes effort, and rides too low in travel on steeps). Sag is probably a tad too much at 22%, but it sure is supple without any air preload!I added extra oil to the damper side to be sure that it has enough oil in there when at full extension so that the compression circuit isn't just cycling air, so I added another 175 mL to make the 200 mL that the manual says is appropriate (though I see your comment above). Now, I can get no more than ~60% of my travel. I'm thinking that's hydraulic lock from overfilling with the oil? Should I take the oil out of the damper and L leg and replace with 10 wt to slow down high speed (and all) compression? I don't want to take apart the DBC cartridge if I don't have to, but I'll do it if necessary to fix the lack of HSC. For what it's worth, I'm 200 lbs.Thank you!
the oil quantity is total, so that includes the DBC damper and it is the overfill that is giving you hydraulic lock. Restore the oil quantity in the damper leg and add 10cc to the coil leg, this will give you the progression you are looking for.Secondly you can use up to around 20-25psi with effecting the coil, so I suggest try 10psi with the increased oil level.The compression is low speed, so you can use this to dial our excessive bob or dive.The lock out, technically isn't a lock out, its a firm platform setting for use on smooth transition stages, personally I never use it but some people find it useful.
It is awesome that you're so responsive Dan - thank you so much! I changed oil volumes - parking lot test improved! Ride tomorrow will help.On another note - I am pretty sure that the "170mm" fork I was sold is actually 160mm - how hard is it to change travel? Is it easy, or should I talk with the retailer? Thanks again!
thanks for your comments Erik! If the fork has Espresso stanchions is should be 160mm, if it has black stanchions it should have 170mm.